Tuesday, 3 February

Our first full–on encounter with the scalpers at Estadio Quisqueya. They bought up all the advance ticket packages and are now selling them as gameday seats. We get bum–rushed the second we step out of the cab.

One of them shows us a wad of choice “discounted” tickets, and even leads us into the empty stadium, past the camouflaged security, to show us “our seats.” Only the seats are not together and some of the ticket stubs are already torn off, loose in his calloused hands.

“No problem,” he assures us. “Just roll them up like this at the gate.” We don’t feel assured, and head for the ticket window.

Walt, as usual, buys postcards, then heads to the post office in Zona Colonial to buy stamps. Another first — a post office with no stamps. An all–knowing cabbie shows us where to find them...at the government tax office. He also takes us past the US Embassy, a walled fortress. I’d take a picture of it, but we might get shot.

In Game 1 of the day–night doubleheader, Mexico faces Puerto Rico. Mexico stunk out the Serie last year, losing all six games. This year, they play with speed, skill and spirit. It’s Puerto Rico who looks like they’d rather be somewhere else. Mexico wins 10–4, and it’s not that close.

As usual, the Mexican fans steal the show, dancing and singing atop the Mexican team dugout with painted faces, waving the tricolor, leading cheers through battery–powered bullhorns. They even their brought their own band, complete with tuba and trombones. One prancing fan dresses up as a green–faced alien. Others mask as Vicente Fox, George W. Bush and yes, Saddam Hussein.

Game 2 pits the defending champion Dominicans against Venezuela, who missed the 2003 Serie due to political unrest at home. The Dominicans shake off their sloppy defensive play and win 4–3 in 10 innings. Miguel Tejada strokes a home run and robs Magglio Ordonez with a spectacular diving catch. Unlike the Mexican fans, the Dominican fans cheer not for their country but for Licey, the Dominican League team representing the country in the Serie.

(For more info on the Serie itself, check out the Dominican League website.)

Our return to the Hotel Palacio is a scene out of “Bladerunner,” rattling through Zona Colonial in a battle–damaged Nissan taxi. The unlit streets are black and strewn with garbage. Black cats prowl the sidewalks while dogs lie on their sides and dream of nights without humidity.

Nobody has electricity, but everybody seems to have a cell phone.

NEXT: Day Four