CHRISTMAS in EUROPE

December 2007

STRASBOURG, France — This city is all about Noël. The centuries–old European tradition of Christmas markets began here.

Paris–Strasbourg takes 2 1/2 hours by TGV high–speed train. On the way, you roll through villages of stone churches and two–story homes with steep roofs of red clay tiles.

Sitting at the far eastern edge of the Alsace region, Strasbourg is laced by the rivers Ill and Rhine. Like Paris, the city center is an island dominated by le Cathedral. The best way to get around is by tram.

The vibe is young, cosmopolitan. This university town draws thousands of students from all over the world. It’s also home to the European Parliament. You hear languages from everywhere.

The French street market tradition still thrives here, but so too do hypermarkets like Auchan, which has 63 checkout stands!

Just across the Rhine is Germany, and the town of Kehl. Not much to do or see here, except maybe the blue Santa Claus.

THE (frozen) HOLIDAY SPIRIT

Christmas in Europe seems to be more pagan than Christian, but so what? After all, your Christmas tree is pagan, as is that mythical fat guy with the twelve flying reindeer.

Never mind, just roll with it.

The biggest Christmas markets are around le Cathedral. Families stroll among the stalls with their dogs. Street musicians play. The night streets are aglow with lights.

There’s also a temporary ice skating rink. It’s next to le Cathedral, which may may or may not be a coincidence.

They drink everything hot here, even orange juice, and for good reason! The most popular drink is mulled wine known in French as vin chaud.

We tred a lot of Alsatian specialties, like buckwheat crepes, choucroute garni and tarte flambee. Gingerbread here is full of big chunks of ginger and covered with molasses.

Few people associate beer with France, but the biere de Noël from the Kronenbourg brewery could give Mexico’s Noche Buena some tough competition.

Strasbourg is a proud yet lighthearted place that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Even without the Christmas markets, it’s worth a visit.